Six by Nico (Glasgow)
A concept dining offering with a six-course themed tasting menu that changes every six weeks.
When Scots-Italian chef Nico Simeone opened La Famiglia back in 2011, there was little sign he’d soon have a string of heavily branded, high-concept venues. His first spot is now 111 by Nico, while his Six by Nico gimmick – a different six-course set menu every six weeks – has spread to Edinburgh and now Belfast, with more in the pipeline. He’s also opened Public House and Supper Club (both ‘by Nico’ of course). His ‘Cooking Paris’ menu of spring 2019 is a hit and miss affair. It’s well suited to the venue, with its tones of a continental bistro, where tables are packed in tight. Yet French cooking is serious business meaning there is less of the playful hooks of previous offerings such as The Chippie or Picnic. There are still clever and enjoyable twists, from a ‘French onion soup’ as a deliciously savoury amuse-bouche to a ‘coq au vin’ terrine – there’s always some excitement as each dish is delivered, dissected and discussed. That expectation can occasionally be dashed – an insipid crab bisque sauce detracts from nicely cooked sole in the ‘bouillabaise’, while the ‘beef bourguignon’ should be a highlight but ends up being rather confusing on the palate. Value is good, with an accompanying wine flight an enticing, extra cost. Popularity means booking is essential – but make sure you show up or cancel or you’ll be debited the full menu price.
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Wheelchair access
- Capacity: 38
- Largest group: 30
- Open since: 2017
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 12
- House wine: £19 per bottle