From the same stable as Epicures of Hyndland and Old Salty's, Chelsea Market slides into gastronomic Finnieston, offering bistro dining with modern Scottish elements.
While other Finnieston newcomers squeeze their way into tiny venues, Chelsea Market has sprawled itself out in a large open-plan corner unit. It all looks the part – think traditional brasserie vibe – with open-plan space drawing the eye to an impressive wood-panelled ceiling. Brass shines, hanging lights twinkle, exposed stone adds warmth, and big windows look out on the church opposite (or Sainsbury’s depending where you sit). It’s all expensive and design-led – yet lacking a little in soul and personality. The modern Scottish menu begins with the showstopper: crispy shortribs – rendered fat melting into marinaded meat, enlivened by Asian flavours and citrus hits. It’s a too-good starter that serves to rather highlight the slow decline of subsequent dishes. A lamb main comes well cooked yet feels listless, while the ‘Chelsea Market sausage’ (from a butcher) tastes more chip shop than gourmet. A dessert glass of ‘Yorkshire rhubarb’, overly busy with panacotta, ice-cream and gingerbread, can’t manage to steady the ship at the end.
- High point: The memorable crispy shortribs
- Low point: Reminding staff to put the £20 of wine on the bill
- Open since: 2016