Obsession of India

Curry house on the Merchant City , dishing up North Indian favourites with an emphasis on fresh, cooked-to-order cuisine.

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At a first glance, the unassuming shopfront and ramshackle interior – golden chandeliers and matching wallpaper to boot – quite belie the meal before you. From the tandoori grill come the most succulent treats, from juicy king prawns and charred lamb chops to devilishly red chicken drumsticks. Moving to mains, much makes the cut, from traditional Indian dishes such as chicken dhansak, madras and dopiaza, to mainstays like bhuna and korma. Most dishes are available as veggie, chicken, paneer, lamb or shrimp – or either king prawn or lamb chops if you’re looking to get serious. Try a garam masala curry with tender chunks of paneer and a judicious touch of spice, or a creamier chicken karahi with the bite of green chillies and kick of fresh ginger. The kitchen keeps it simple, cooking curries fresh each day in preparation for evening service. Match that with a welcome so warm you’d think you were at home and you’re on to something good. Expect a passion for delicious food and great service – after all, there’s little need for anything else.

• High point: Top-quality tandoori
• Low point: Décor could do with sprucing up