Obsession of India

Simple but welcoming traditional venue that serves North Indian favourites with an emphasis on fresh, light dishes.

The 2018 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £7.95 (+p&p).

It may not be up there with the city’s top-tier curry houses quite yet but this restaurant is bringing a little sparkle to the outer reaches of the Merchant City. Ongoing partnership work with a local regeneration group shows an admirable commitment to shining a little light on one of Glasgow’s forgotten streets. Amid the tapas, twists and trends across the city, there should still be a place for serving up recognised classics. Modernity here comes from the lightness in the cooking, not a deconstructed samosa. While dopiaza, bhoona and biryani line up alongside tandoor grilled meats, the chana poori is a delicious grease-free soft-bread topped with dhal. Curries like sabji gosht and lamb karahi come smothered in punchy sauce without a drip of oil. Anything the menu lacks in surprises is more than made up for in freshness and taste. The smoked chicken curry is worth traversing a few extra streets for and explains the venue’s 2017 Scottish Curry Awards nomination. If the scheduled refurbishment can lift the décor to similar heights, it may find itself edging towards the spotlight.