Kenji

A traditional Japanese eatery from an experienced team with meticulous attention to detail.

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

The team behind Bread Street’s Bentoya have brought their expertise over to Stockbridge and turned it up a notch or two. Kenji’s dining area is split into two, with tables and benches at the front of the restaurant and a more conventional Japanese space in the back, where seat cushions replace chairs and noren (curtains) conceal the kitchen. Spicy fried squid rings are well seasoned with salt and pepper and are cooked carefully to be springy but not chewy. The aubergine goma is syrupy sweet, but in small quantities delicious miso flavours shine through. If overwhelmed by the variety of maki, gunkan, nigiri and roll sushi, opt for the set sushi platters which come reasonably priced and are a thing of true beauty. Kenji’s not the place to kick-start a night out, but a tranquil Japanese playlist sets the tone for a meal where the focus is entirely on the delights that come out the kitchen.

• High point: The tender teriyaki sirloin
• Low point: Sitting on straw seat cushions is only fun for so long
• Notable dish: Duck Omurice