Forage & Chatter

Forage & Chatter is a basement star delivering local produce with style, flair and aplomb.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

The flagstone floors and cosy nooks of this subterranean venue have hosted some decent restaurants and bistros over the years, but few can boast the sheer panache and flair of the present incumbents. A prosaically worded menu which modestly lists ingredients doesn’t even hint at the variety of appetising techniques the food is subject to before it reaches the table. For example, a seemingly humble oxtail starter comes as two intensely flavoured patties exuding a slow-cooked depth and bolstered by the sweetest roasted onion amid fruity dabs and creamy squash smudges, while beetroot-soaked gnocchi is more than the sum of its parts: moist, velvety and juicy with highlights of ginger adding a racy edge. The adventure continues through the mains where a chunky crispy-skinned halibut sings with sea-freshness on a bed of pearl barley and foraged wild mushrooms enriched by a sprinkling of bracing samphire. Each plate is dusted with harmonious powders, crumbs and micro-herbs that add texture and surprising accents, ably highlighting the chef’s creativity. Service is relaxed and knowledgeable while the atmosphere is lively and congenial.