Raising the bar in an area chock-full of dining havens, this new venture is fun, funky and clever.
An Ottolenghi chef landing in Finnieston has caused no shortage of a stir and undoubtedly raised the bar on the Argyle Street strip. Rosie Healey leaves the London operation to head up the open kitchen at this latest venture by co-owner Fergus McVicar (Chinaski’s, Tabac). You can watch Healey work her magic while you dine at the long pale orange bar that bisects the bright and narrow room, the standout aesthetic feature of a restaurant with a Scandi-chic feel to it – pale wood, whitewashed stripped stone walls and brass-coloured cylindrical lampshades. Plates come in small to medium sizes, served as and when they’re ready, with roughly two to three per head being enough. Pithy menu descriptions and relatively plain servings on simple white plates add to the surprise element of dishes that enrapture the senses with sophisticated flavours and textures – greyish black squid ink-risotto served spotted with scallops carpaccio, or succulent fried lamb shoulder with a Middle Eastern flourish of crushed chickpeas, red onion and Aleppo chilli. The menu is ever-changing, while a small but well-formed wine list encourages pairing with robust pours.
- High point: An unshowy confidence that’s merited with every mouthful
- Low point: Sharp-edge bar stools make for an uncomfortable experience
- Notable dish: Fried lamb shoulder, crushed chickpeas, red onion and Aleppo chilli
- Private dining: Up to 12 covers
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Halal options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Jazz
- Capacity: 54
- Largest group: 12
- Open since: 2016
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 11
- House wine: £19 per bottle