Miller & Carter
Any bitterness about the loss of Glasgow’s city centre post office is soon dissipated once inside the recently opened branch of the 40-odd-strong Miller & Carter steakhouse group. Frankly, it looks way better than it ever did in its former guise. The capacious main room sits under an impressive domed roof, with swanky cocktail bar on one side, open kitchen at rear, while mixed booths and tables benefit from privacy partitions, and a couple of smaller rooms offer further wood-panelled intimacy. If there’s any doubt you’re in a steakhouse then the endless bull-related pictures, statues and murals will confirm that it’s about the beef here – and that beef is good. From a choice of several cuts, the 9oz 45-day-aged chargrilled rump comes properly, enjoyably medium-rare, unfussily accompanied by an overly dressed lettuce wedge, grilled tomato, fried onion ‘loaf’ and skinny chips – with a rather lacklustre béarnaise sauce. If you don’t want steak, you’re pretty much in the wrong place, although fish, burgers and salads make appearances. And do go to the toilet – the original bank vault door into the loos is an attraction itself.
- High point: First-class refurb
- Low point: Second-class béarnaise