The story goes that it was originally a croft established by sheep thieves who escaped from the Aberdeenshire village of Foveran over 200 years ago, but the Foveran is now a destination restaurant with rooms a short drive from Kirkwall in the hamlet of St Ola. Run for over 15 years by genial head chef Paul Doull and his family, this is fine dining without pretension, ensuring an atmosphere that is friendly and welcoming with a deep respect for Orkney produce. Seafood is understandably prominent on a seasonal menu packed with local squid, crab, hand-dived scallops, lobster and whatever comes in with the daily catch. Orkney beef and pork also feature prominently, cooked with care by sous chef Roddy Belford. Desserts are a highlight: particular mention goes to a perfectly squidgy dark chocolate fondant served with Orkney Dark Island ale ice-cream. The large glass-walled dining room has incredible views across Scapa Flow and, with its dotted islands and twinkling lighthouses, is particularly atmospheric at night.