Globetrotting owner Fergus McVicar brings Barcelona, a pinch of Berlin and a sprinkle of Paris to this side-street joint.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
Many strive for yet few attain the kind of louche bohemian chic of Tabac, with potted plants, film noir neon with futuristic slogans and a vintage cigarette machine for a fish tank. A dark brooding leather interior matches the modernistic idiosyncrasies of an ergonomic menu – in-vogue small plates with a global twist lean toward the Far East. Sourdough bread with murderously meaty bone marrow butter, pork belly, kimchi and a crispy whole fish with Vietnamese nam prik dressing all marry complex flavours with sumptuous ease and are presented with a flourish. It’s sharp and slick and specials such as pig's trotters with piccalilli cast a knowing glance to the nose-to-tail movement. At weekends it morphs into an über-hip pre-club spot complete with a back bar selling leche de pantera – Panther Milk – a boozy cultural export from Barcelona and catalyst for milky bacchanalian excess. A party animal with a gourmand side-kick.
- High point: Seductively chic
- Low point: Panther milk on weekends only
- Notable dish: Whole fried fish with nam prik dressing
- Provides: Wheelchair access, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Father John Misty
- Live entertainment: DJs Fri/Sat
- Capacity: 40
- Largest group: 16
- Open since: 2015
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 14
- House wine: £14.95 per bottle