Porter & Rye
- Telephone 0141 572 1212
- Food served Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm, 11pm–1am
- Average price £33 (lunch); £33 (evening meal)
- Website www.porterandrye.com
Top quality, highly aged meats set the tone for a stylish bistro experience in the heart of Finnieston.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
It’s probably the only place in town where your server tells you the age of that day’s steaks – such is Porter & Rye’s relationship with Gaindykehead Farm and their meat. Fifty days is the minimum, though it can be as much as 70 ((in context, 21, 28 and 35 are typical elsewhere), giving the meat here a considerable depth and richness of flavour. Impressive touches start from the industrial stylings and hanging cabinet of soon-to-be-consumed meat as one enters, to less predictable delights such as amuse-bouches gifted by the kitchen, or rotating beers from Scottish craft breweries. To start, pig ear scratchings in super-crisp breadcrumbs are a mouthful of smoky bacon, sharpened by piccalilli, softened by apple sauce. Mushroom dumplings seem incongruously Japanese for this menu, but the intense umami broth cleverly anticipates the main courses. Alongside fillet and ribeye are less pricey rump, onglet and bavette, all with strong charring and character, all very good. Unusual accompaniments such as garlic butter with pink peppercorns add variety, and a well-honed cocktail list and enticing little lunchtime/late-night menus further add to the considerable appeal.
- High point: The ageing of the meat
- Low point: Starters have unnecessarily gimmicky touches
- Notable dish: 10oz ribeye with pink peppercorn and confit garlic butter
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: rockabilly, 50-esque music
- Capacity: 50
- Largest group: 12
- Open since: 2014
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 31
- House wine: £18 per bottle