Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill

Great meats and wines under the watchful gaze of a certain celebrity chef at this plush city centre steakhouse, bar and grill.

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Located within Hotel Indigo, this bar and grill with its crisp linens and red leather booths is a confident fusion of fine dining and gastro pub. The menu is a reflection of Marco’s commitment to serving high-quality traditional food without pretension – think steaks and straightforward classics like cod and chips and baked camembert. Starters include a generous portion of devilled whitebait – crisp with an intense tang of mustard and sharp lemon, while prawn cocktail is served with an ocean’s worth of fresh pink prawns in a sauce that manages to be velvety smooth but with a heat, hidden beneath the fluffy marie-rose. An impressive steak selection dominates the mains – a sirloin oozing chargrill-flavoured juices, mingling with an earthy wild mushroom sauce, while the chicken Kiev, with a volcano of garlic butter erupting as the crisp bread-crumbed fillet is sliced might be retro, but there’s no beating a classic for comforting, familiar flavours. The food is enhanced by the knowledgeable staff who are genuinely interested in advising on selecting a great wine from the impressive list.

• High point: Excellent wine list
• Low point: Can feel cavernous on quiet nights
• Notable dish: Devilled whitebait