NY American Grill

Another operation from the owners of neighbouring café Cranachan and tapas bar Barca, this top-floor diner does US food and drink in a comfortably stylish setting where the Americana is concentrated in the menu more than on the walls. From the impressive US cocktail offerings, great selection of bourbons and craft beers, and classic transatlantic food from deli sandwiches to burgers and dogs, it’s an intriguing newcomer offering decent dining, though food may occasionally feel by the numbers – and it’s hard to discern the benefits of their much-lauded Josper grill, especially on the less-than-juicy burgers.

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There’s a nice blend to what NY American Grill have achieved at Princes Square: jumbo hot dogs and signature burgers gives it an almost diner-like feel, meats – charred on the much-lauded Josper Grill – give a sense of robustness, while bistro-inspired dishes such as Cajun-spiced sea bass fillets offer a touch of finesse. The restaurant has the aesthetic profile of both a Stateside boozer (a lengthy bar, plus an extensive bourbon and craft beer list attests to this) with that of a sleek metropolitan eatery in its stylish wooden-panelled booths. The food itself is executed well without ever being game-changing. A starter of nachos is generous and adorned with appropriately tender pulled pork, while French onion soup, crostini and all, is given a nice twist with the addition of wholegrain mustard. The Josper Grill comes into its own with the requisite charring of a strip sirloin, with the kitchen deserving of kudos for utilising an underrated cut. More impressive is the aforementioned sea bass, delicately handled and given a Gallic touch with the accompanying grilled fennel and punchy salsa verde.

• High point: Pre-theatre excellent value for money
• Low point: Desserts follow the much-trodden brownie, cheesecake and ice-cream path
• Notable dish: Beef brisket