The Devil's Advocate
Quality food and drink within an imaginative space, all tucked into one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive closes.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
The Old Town’s closes are magical places to stumble upon – even Edinburgh natives can be surprised by a turn, a twist, a hidden garden, a sneaky short cut or a wonderful bar. Tucked into the bottom of atmospheric Advocates Close, the Devil’s Advocate reflects the mix of old and new architecture outside with its own split-level conversion of a Victorian pump house. Nothing here disappoints – the cocktails are distinctive and carefully made, the bar gleams with a huge range of whiskies (including a range of Japanese blends) and the food delivers confidently (though perhaps there could be a wider range of smaller snacks and nibbles for those who don’t fancy a full meal). Spiced fried polenta cake is well seasoned and accompanies a pile of wilted greens blanketed with hollandaise in a pleasing mix of indulgence and health, while a salad of roast beef is beautifully dressed with sherry and nigella seeds. All in, this is an experience to be savoured and enjoyed.
- High point: Beautiful space in a beautiful space
- Low point: Some smaller bar nibbles wouldn't go amiss
- Provides: Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Open since: 2013
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 35
- House wine: £22 per bottle