The Devil's Advocate
Quality food and drink within an imaginative space, all tucked into one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive closes.
The Old Town’s closes are magical places to stumble upon – even Edinburgh natives can be surprised by a turn, a twist, a hidden garden, a sneaky short cut or a wonderful bar. Tucked into the bottom of atmospheric Advocates Close, the Devil’s Advocate reflects the mix of old and new architecture outside with its own split-level conversion of a Victorian pump house. Nothing here disappoints – the cocktails are distinctive and carefully made, the bar gleams with a huge range of whiskies (including a range of Japanese blends) and the food delivers confidently (though perhaps there could be a wider range of smaller snacks and nibbles for those who don’t fancy a full meal). Spiced fried polenta cake is well seasoned and accompanies a pile of wilted greens blanketed with hollandaise in a pleasing mix of indulgence and health, while a salad of roast beef is beautifully dressed with sherry and nigella seeds. All in, this is an experience to be savoured and enjoyed.
- High point: Beautiful space in a beautiful space
- Low point: Some smaller bar nibbles wouldn't go amiss
- Provides: Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Open since: 2013
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 35
- House wine: £22 per bottle