Twenty Princes Street Grill & Smokehouse
- Telephone 0131 556 4901
- Opening times Daily: noon–11.30pm (last orders 10pm).
- Seasonal times Festival: food served until 11pm.
- Bar open Mon–Sun noon –1am.
- Food served Mon–Sun noon–10pm.
- Average price £20 (set lunch); £20 (evening meal)
- Website www.twentyprincesstreet.co.uk
Theatrical dishes, flashes of brilliance and a superlative chip from Tony Sarton’s kitchen, hidden above Princes Street
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
Twenty Princes Street blends old and new, modernising the grand old Royal British Hotel’s Victorian ballroom with leather and walnut booths and shiny marble tables. Suave, slick waiters top up sparkling cut-glass tumblers for tourists and business travellers in black suits and dresses, while chef Tony Sarton’s interesting and inventive menu also blends old and new. A Scottish brown crab is artfully deconstructed as tea and toast: the shell turned into a pot of strong, sea-salty broth; the brown meat into delicate mousse; the white into a creamy, refreshing parfait to spread on a tiny bread loaf. Glass cloches are lifted in a puff and huff of hickory smoke to reveal tender, blood-red Border beef carpaccio, soft-boiled quails’ eggs, pickled walnuts and crunchy baby onion rings – theatrical and fun. More traditional mains also shine: a well-seasoned, succulent ribeye steak is seared to 450˚C in the much-vaunted charcoal-fuelled Josper grill and oven, while a sublime seafood box of half lobster with scallops, mussels, cockles and fresh, sweet langoustine is cracking value. Finally a fragrant basil sorbet, strawberry jelly and balsamic reduction, makes you want to come back for more.
- High point: Fluffy, crispy triple-cooked chips
- Low point: Sweet ale gravy diminished a sublime steak.
Twenty Princes Street offers a trendy and sophisticated hangout whatever the occasion, where dining is refreshingly informal and the atmosphere is glamorous but not glitzy.
The interiors are an exciting melange of smouldering black leather and burnished gold upholstery, with sleek lacquered accents set against a striking backdrop of white and gold. Triple-height windows provide one of the best vantage points in the city with picture perfect views of the city skyline and lush, capacious banquettes make the most of the vistas.
Chef Tony Sarton demonstrates culinary flair with an inventive and eclectic menu, using only the finest local ingredients. There’s an exciting choice of fish and seafood dishes while the selection of steaks are a signature of the restaurant with a Josper Grill ensuring dishes are delivered perfectly.
The rump of lamb served with twice-baked pea and Parmesan soufflé is not to be missed, while the seabass cooked in cedar paper with caramelised onion is another winner; and vegetarians are also well-catered for with smoked ricotta and chargrilled courgette served with truffled gnocchi and roasted summer squash risotto with red onion and cumin fritters. Starters from £4 and mains from just £14.
For pre- or post-prandial drinks, relax in our bar Juniper.
Discover more, make a reservation and join the fun!
Text supplied by third party.
- No. overnight rooms: 65
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Halal options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Free wi-fi
- Capacity: 108
- Largest group: 80
- Open since: 2013
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 19
- House wine: £17.50 per bottle
Reviews & features
Food review: Twenty Princes Street15 Oct 2013
The upmarket city centre restaurant is more than just the Royal British Hotel's dining room
The dam of tram works in the West End has opened up and soon the trams themselves will be shoogling (or swishing – who knows?) along Edinburgh’s majestic, open-sided main artery. Princes Street is on the comeback trail, something the Cairn Hotel Group…