Yadgar

Authentic Pakistani cuisine on the Southside and good street food prices.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Yadgar is an unlikely entity – an out-on-a-limb, unassuming Pakistani diner and kebab house that attracts fervently dedicated customers from outside town. You wouldn’t for one second guess this from the basic décor and Formica tables, but then again that’s a big part of the charm. With the food itself – ‘kebab house’ doesn’t even begin to cover the range on offer. Everything from the fresh, creamy mango lassi to the airy, butter-puddled naan is lovingly executed here. It is sort of like a reverse Wizard of Oz – an unassuming exterior, yet with some sort of technicolor spice sorcery happening out of sight in the kitchen. For instance, bite into the light, flaky pastry of a mince samosa and you are treated to a warm cloud of meat woven with surprisingly complex flavours. The speciality lamb haleem curry offers a pleasing sharpness softened by just the right amount of coriander, while the rich, comforting aloo gobi nails its vegetable textures and combines herby comfort with a welcome after-kick. The whole experience is one long culinary lesson in never judging a place by appearances.