Purslane

Raising the tone of neighbourhood restaurants in trendy Stockbridge, Purslane offers fine dining at a pretty fine price.

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Hidden from street view, Purslane could never rely on passing trade. What keeps this compact, subterranean restaurant perennially busy is a young owner-chef who knows just what he’s doing. The flavours he and his team cook up in the smallest of kitchens would stimulate the most jaded palate. And there’s a playful inventiveness here, from the gin-free, smoky G&T with lemon and sage right through to the puddings. A red mullet on salad nicoise amuse-bouche sets the scene, followed by tender smoked haddock in a finely judged, not-too-creamy leak and potato sauce. If that is the standout starter, lamb rump with artichoke is an equally fine main course where the olive purée and a red wine jus cut through the sweetness of the meat. Then, for pure indulgence, try and squeeze in – or at least share – some smoked milk ice-cream and a buzzy, espresso-packed coffee parfait.

• High point: Neighbourhood dining at its best
• Low point: Tables slightly cramped
• Notable dish: Smoked haddock with potato and leek, and soft boiled quail's egg