- Telephone 0141 338 6606
- Food served Mon–Thu 11am–3pm, 5–9pm; Fri/Sat 11am–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun 11am–7pm
- Pre-theatre times Mon–Sat 5–6.30pm
- Average price £14.95 (set lunch); £24 (evening meal)
- Pre-theatre price £15.95
- Website www.an-lochan.com
Just a couple of months after taking over the former An Lochan on Crow Road, husband and wife team Aisla and Rupert Staniforth are already filling the tables with enthusiastic diners. It’s hardly surprising: the couple know the business pretty well and ran the much-loved No 16 on Byres Road until a couple of years back. Front of house, Aisla chats cheerily to diners – families, birthday parties, friends and couples – praising their food selections or sharing behind-the-scenes tales. The relaxed informality out front is contrasted by things in the kitchen. There Rupert creates imaginative and beautifully presented Scottish dishes. Gone is the emphasis on fish – although there are several seafood choices plus a daily fish soup on offer. The menu now allows quality Scottish meat from the Aberfoyle Butcher to be showcased in roast barbary duck with sweet potato puree and ginger and lime sauce, a meltingly soft 24-hour roast shoulder of lamb with mash, and in traditional roasts served every Sunday. After such winning starters and mains the puddings are perhaps not quite on the same plate. But they are still good, and overall this is an outstanding neighbourhood restaurant.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
There are imaginative Scottish dishes aplenty at this reputable and stylish neighbourhood café-bistro, whether perusing for a spot of lunch, set pre-theatre two or three-courser, or relaxed à la carte dinner. From a starter of sumptuous juicy pan-fried scallops with chorizo on velvety artichoke purée to crisp and light tempura of monkfish and tiger prawn with scoopable homemade tartare sauce, it’s a joyous feast for the senses. Fillet of sea bass is a hearty main portion and gets the whole Asian treatment with deliciously chewy umami crab dumplings, cleansing fragrant rice and rich chilli, ginger and lime tamarind butter. Tender guinea fowl is paired well with traditional colcannon ‘spring veg’ mash, bacon crisp and dreamy caramelised apple and cider jus. With its warm feel-good vibe and appealing list of regional wines, Scottish craft beers and spirits to boot, Wee Lochan has all the hallmarks of a ‘wee lock-in’ – if only. Make room for heart-racing sticky toffee pudding or colourful passion fruit tart with cleansing snow-white lime sorbet for a satisfying finish.
- High point: Enticing menu of fine Scottish produce
- Low point: Undersells itself
- Notable dish: Jumbo scallops
Similar to the locally sourced produce on the menu at the Wee Lochan, the small, boutique interior is akin to a gallery for quality local artists, showcasing a mishmash of hand-picked evocative art on the walls and even a shelf of jams and jewellery for sale. The menu evolves regularly with the seasons and the produce, but could include a starter of smoked trout, with poached egg, lashings of hollandaise sauce and an artichoke to provide a sharp contrast to the smoky, creamy flavours. The plump pan-fried scallops come with a delectably different accompaniment than the black pudding that’s seen so often across the city: instead they come perched upon small, tender chunks of pork belly cooked in a sticky, lightly spiced Asian sauce. Main courses include fillets of sea bass, the fresh, soft flesh contrasting with perfectly crisp skin, served with a fricassee of mushrooms and crushed potatoes. Haunch of venison comes pink and is served with colcannon and port and orange sauces. A trio of desserts includes a passion fruit flan, which is like a tropical explosion of sweet, luscious flavour in your mouth – the perfect crescendo to an excellent meal.
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: soul, funk, r'n b
- Capacity: 40
- Largest group: 49
- Open since: 2011
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 20
- House wine: £17 per bottle
Reviews & features
Q&A: Aisla and Rupert Staniforth – Wee Lochan27 Oct 2014
How does your restaurant change in look and atmosphere in December? What effect are you hoping for? The restaurant gets all twinkly. We have these fabby porcelain lights on each table The are lithographs and the light shines through the different…