This review is taken from the 2012 edition.
One of the city’s newest Far Eastern food venues, Koyama ticks most of the required boxes. The décor is appropriately Japanese – black and white textured walls are scattered with shiny Hokusai prints and red paper lanterns shine above a dozen blue melamine table tops. The lighting level is a tad bright for a romantic encounter but perfect if you’ve forgotten your reading glasses. Of the hundred items on the photogenic menu, the hot dishes stand out proudest. The teryaki chicken is sticky and sizzling on a bed of crunchy bean sprouts. Gyoza are good too, achieving that crispy yet soft counterbalance, a feat repeated in the chef‘s excellent soft shell crab tempura. While the sushi and sashimi look the part and taste fresh enough, they miss out on texture and build quality. California sushi rolls are a visually stunning contrast of white rice, vivid orange flying fish roe, yellow omelette and avocado, yet the seaweed is too thick making them difficult to eat. Lunchtime sees a cheaper streamlined menu including golden katsu curry (£7.50) and quirky bento boxes (from £8.90).
- High point: Smiley, sincere serving staff
- Low point: Pale, watery, over-chilled tuna sashimi
- Provides: Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Japanese classical
- Capacity: 40
- Largest group: 40
- Open since: 2011
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 7
- House wine: £12.95 per bottle