The Suburban Pantry
This restaurant has ceased trading.
- Telephone 0131 332 2289
- Opening times Mon–Wed 9am–8pm; Thu–Sat 9am–11pm; Sun 10am–5pm
- Bar open Mon-Tues 9am–4pm Wed-Sat 9am–9.30pm Sun 11.30am–3pm
- Food served Mon–Tues 9am–4pm; Wed–Sat 9am–4pm, 6–9.30pm; Sun 10am–3pm.
- Average price £11.95 Mon–Thurs (set lunch); £22 (evening meal)
- Website www.thesuburbanpantry.co.uk
This review is taken from the 2014 edition.
Being off the beaten track in Edinburgh can be a double-edged sword. While it’s great for building a community-based focal point, it can be difficult to attract custom from other parts of the city. That’s a dilemma faced by Suburban Pantry. Given its relatively anonymous location among shops on a main road heading west, it’s little surprise that it draws heavily on regulars. The former wine shop is now a bright space with neutral décor and light wood furniture. Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea account for much of the business, but it’s in the evening that chef/co-owner Martin Orr exhibits his talents, transforming good quality local produce into top-notch dishes. Starters could feature Orr’s take on a Scottish classic – venison haggis wrapped in pancetta, a smear of turnip and fondant potato. For mains, a succulent duo of pork fillet and cheek, served with mustard mash and vegetables, is further evidence of the chef’s skill. And desserts that include a deliciously gooey hot chocolate fondant offer yet more evidence that Suburban Pantry is worth a trip across the city.
- High point: Clever use of good local produce
- Low point: There’s not much else nearby
- Notable dish: Venison haggis in pancetta, potato fondant, turnip puree
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Easy listening
- Capacity: 40 (12 outdoors)
- Largest group: 40
- Open since: 2011
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 10
- House wine: £16.50 per bottle