The Honours

Martin Wishart puts a sophisticated spin on brasserie dining at his stylish New Town eatery.

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The slick bar makes a stylish first impression in Martin Wishart’s New Town brasserie, with gold discs adorning the walls, warm lighting overhead and leather banquettes to lounge on. In the long, high-ceilinged dining room, the atmosphere buzzes as friendly waiters quickly assuage any concerns about stuffiness. As you'd expect from Wishart's pedigree, the food is highly accomplished. Starters include the palate-tingling tuna tartare – fresh ruby jewels dressed in a savoury butter sauce with creamy avocado mousse whet the appetite and leave room for courses to come. The onglet of Black Angus beef is top-notch. Perfectly pink meat topped with a heady bone marrow crust is complemented by an intense red wine sauce. Everything about The Honours is polished, from the mirrors on the walls to the well-trained staff. There are competitive deals to be found in the lunch and early-dining menus and the wine list displays a great range of new and old-world gems to suit most pockets. But, while The Honours succeeds in feeling less formal than its Michelin-starred Leith mothership, the overall result is undoubtedly special.

• High point: Polished, stylish dining without feeling stuffy
• Low point: At the pricier end of the bistro spectrum
• Notable dish: Onglet of Black Angus beef, thyme & bone marrow crust