Epicures of Hyndland

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

The laid-back but stylish atmosphere is happily not too refined to make you feel guilty for ordering the boozy knickerbocker glory for dessert. It’s a gloriously indulgent mix of ice-cream, chunks of brownie and liqueur. Therein lies the strength of this rather continental bistro – casual European sophistication and high-quality cuisine in the setting of one of Glasgow’s most affluent neighbourhoods. Rich and intensely flavoured scallops or the lightness of crab spring rolls in delicate pastry are a fine start. After that, wonderfully tender steak, with the quirky addition of onion rings speared to the board, is an altogether heartier affair. Despite the option for more formal dining upstairs, the inviting ground floor space makes long elegant windows ideal for people watching. Cod fillet in lemon sauce is an intriguing combination and popular with the regulars. Of which there are many: the commuter rush for coffee and breakfast, an afternoon coffee-and-cake crowd and the evening clientele ranging from couples to families. A local favourite for good reason – chic yet unaffectedly so.

• High point: It’s a touch of class all round
• Low point: Music lets the side down
• Notable dish: Baked Cod

Listed in the Glasgow Larder – order a print copy (free + p&p).