Ian Brown Food and Drink

A friendly, casual neighbourhood restaurant in Giffnock – presided over by a chef who does cooking at the top end.

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

You walk into a diminutive corner unit in residential Giffnock to a smiling welcome from Sheila Brown as you’re seated, while husband Ian waves from the open-faced kitchen. It’s the sort of pleasing constant that defines the couple’s restaurant, and the sort of demeanour Ian wanted to achieve when he left Ubiquitious Chip after 20 years as their head chef. This is not the Chip – it’s a neighbourhood eatery. But it’s one with a highly skilled cook, whose hand is present in every dish, from an orange, carrot and coriander soup that bursts with citrus vibrancy, to dishes of lamb (braised leg, grilled chop, red wine jus) and pork (stuffed fillet, cider cream) where sauces are loaded with meaty, savoury depth and cuts are cooked with sensitivity. It’s food that’s hearty and homely, but with genuine refinement and handling of big flavours. Generally speaking the menu evolves and changes with the seasons every three months or so. But the place’s charm is permanent.

• High point: A lovely combination of neighbourhood dining and fine dining
• Low point: It's about as far South as the Southside goes
• Notable dish: Braised leg of lamb with paprika potatoes, lamb chops, greens & red wine jus

Listed in the Glasgow Larder – order a print copy (free + p&p).