The Walnut

Wonderful things come in small packages at this exciting and cannily priced neighbourhood eatery on Leith Walk.

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Located on the site of a former run-of-the-mill Leith Walk caff, The Walnut has little in common with its predecessor besides a shared postcode and, possibly, some leftover décor. Mismatched furniture, charming tea-towel napkins and a chalkboard menu create a casual, and cool, first impression. Informed staff are on hand to open your wine (whether you bring it yourself or select from their concise wine list). Food is categorised into smaller and larger plates. A salad of roast carrots delivers caramelised roots, with bites of ripe goat's cheese providing a creamy foil to the sharp sherry vinaigrette. The ever-popular beef short-rib is unctuous meaty joy, and a supremely satisfying main. Pan-fried hake, served in a skillet, delivers moist and tender chunks of fish atop a bed of braised greens. Sprinklings of crayfish and unexpected pockets of garlic aioli create an exciting range of complimentary flavours. With great prices and a steady stream of eager diners, The Walnut brings neighbourhood dining up a notch and makes a formerly humble address seem positively aspirational.

• High point: Great food at a great price
• Low point: Choosing from such a diverse menu
• Notable dish: Pan-fried hake