Bo'Vine Meats and Wines

Smart, hotel-based steak restaurant specialising in Scotch beef and fine wines.

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Occupying prime location at the top of Byres Road, Bo’Vine with its cowhide-wrapped bar pillars and deep leather booths oozes contemporary class. The chatter of fellow diners and cosy table layout makes a large room feel comfortable while the welcoming staff are chatty and entertaining, which adds to the informal, relaxed atmosphere – as does one of the aperitifs carefully (and tantalisingly) suggested at the top of the menu. With its playful name, there’s no surprise that steak and wine are the mainstays of the menu. While their cellar offers an impressive collection of wines from across the globe, the meats and produce are locally sourced focusing on classic dishes with a modern twist. Starters include smoked salmon wrapped round a piquant crab and horseradish filling or hearty goat’s cheese croquettes. Generously sized steaks arrive full of grill flavours, along with their impressive sides – an exceptional dauphinoise, bursting with moreish creamy garlic and gruyère flavours and a béarnaise that retains the delicate aromatic tarragon. Finishing with an espresso crème brûlée, dinner here is a very enjoyable affair.

• High point: Luscious sides that complement high-quality steaks
• Low point: Struggles for atmosphere on quiet nights