Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or
- Box office 0141 248 3801
- General enquiries 0141 248 3801
- Food served Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon.
- Pre-theatre times Mon–Fri 5–7pm; Sat 5–6.30pm
- Average price £24.50 (set lunch); £35 (evening meal)
- Pre-theatre price £21.50
- Website www.brianmaule.com
Upmarket fine-dining restaurant with Chef Maule and his team serving classic French food in suitably formal environs.
Once head chef at Le Gavroche – London’s famous two Michelin-starred restaurant, originally opened by the Roux brothers in 1967 – Brian Maule has kept Le Chardon d’Or at the very front of Glasgow’s fine-dining scene for the last 16 years. His training is evident while browsing the small, simple menu where French techniques are combined with the best of Scottish produce, a match that is surely hard to beat. A starter of duck trio, is presented well and executed with precision – slices of cured fillet with a crisp fat layer sit beside a rich square of buttery foie gras and a coarse, flavoursome terrine using confit leg meat, pistachios add a splash of colour while a grape chutney and tiny shards of toasted sourdough accompany for sweetness and crunch. For main, try the sea bream – crisp skin gives way to firm white flesh, a French soubise accompanies, sweet with onion and red pepper while courgette tempura and a tasty slab of polenta add interesting textures to the well-dressed plate. Service is formal yet relaxed and surroundings are suitably plush. All round, you will struggle to find a better dining experience in the city.
- High point: The most accomplished restaurant in town
- Low point: Very expensive wine list
- Notable dish: Grilled seabream, red pepper and onion soubise, polenta, tempura courgette
Every foodie in Glasgow knows about Le Chardon D’Or. Brian Maule’s converted townhouse in the financial district still sits firmly at the top-end of places to dine in this fair city. His classical French training – a decade under Michel Roux Jr – and well-established relationships with local suppliers ensure Scotland’s natural larder is used as sensitively as anywhere else in town. Inevitably it’s pricey – but these are dishes of complexity and accomplishment (with generous portions too). Starters like a trio of duck show the thought involved: delicate strips of cured breast beside the fatty-roughness of confit terrine and the smooth-richness of foie gras, with the sweet crunch of pistachios livening things up. Elsewhere, a luxurious raviolo is packed with flavours – ham hough giving way to chicken, the dish bound in a truffle veloute that Michel would call ‘unctuous’. Technical ability is evident throughout. An assiette of pork gets the most from various different cuts to achieve a plate of refined meaty comfort, while seldom-served gurnard – as meaty a fish as you’ll find – is sliced, flashed and confidently set against a fennel marmalade. Big flavours, marvellously balanced. With Glaswegian eateries increasingly tending towards a less formal approach, the ‘Golden Thistle’ is now one of only a handful of restaurants in town that give the full white linen/suited waiters service that’s more easily found in places like Edinburgh and London. Dining here is a treat. And the early-evening menu makes it a pretty affordable one, too.
Classy, inventive French cooking amidst smart and cosmopolitan surroundings immediately marks out Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or as the work of a Roux protégé. Situated within the elegant confines of a Victorian townhouse, this understated Glasgow restaurant is chic yet unstuffy, equally at home with business lunches and informal dinners. An eclectic wine list, a mellow bar area and extensive private dining facilities round off a superlative dining experience.
Text supplied by third party.
- Private dining: Up to 60 covers
- Provides: Children's high chairs, Pre-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Jazz
- Live entertainment: Band at weddings and other special occasions
- Capacity: 85
- Largest group: 100
- Open since: 2001
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 15
- House wine: £21.75 per bottle
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