Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or
- Box office 0141 248 3801
- General enquiries 0141 248 3801
- Food served Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon.
- Pre-theatre times Mon–Fri 5–7pm; Sat 5–6.30pm
- Average price £24.50 (set lunch); £35 (evening meal)
- Pre-theatre price £21.50
- Website www.brianmaule.com
Upmarket fine-dining restaurant with Chef Maule and his team serving classic French food in suitably formal environs.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
For a taste of exquisite French food, it’s hard to find somewhere with a better reputation – or a more established fan base – than Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or. Chef-proprietor Maule, who trained under the watchful eye of Michel Roux Jr at La Gavroche before becoming the head chef there, has arguably served up Glasgow’s closest thing to Michelin-starred food for 20 years – so it remains a mystery to many that this fine-dining destination has not yet secured the industry’s top accolade. Dishes take their lead from Paris’s top restaurants, combining confident and simple cooking with punchy flavours and classic presentation. A starter of fried squid, with a perfect ball of fettucine pasta and crisp pork belly slab, works brilliantly thanks to its medley of crunch and tenderness, while a main of sea bream with prawn and crab dumplings floating in a shellfish jus provides a startling contrast. Chardon d’Or’s interiors are fittingly formal, making it an especially good place to visit for a special celebratory occasion. Perhaps 2016 will be the year Maule – and Glasgow – finally ascends to the Michelin stars.
- High point: Seriously skilful cooking
- Low point: Not the place for a casual bite in your jeans
- Notable dish: Fried squid with fettucine pasta, crisp pork belly, garlic butter
Every foodie in Glasgow knows about Le Chardon D’Or. Brian Maule’s converted townhouse in the financial district still sits firmly at the top-end of places to dine in this fair city. His classical French training – a decade under Michel Roux Jr – and well-established relationships with local suppliers ensure Scotland’s natural larder is used as sensitively as anywhere else in town. Inevitably it’s pricey – but these are dishes of complexity and accomplishment (with generous portions too). Starters like a trio of duck show the thought involved: delicate strips of cured breast beside the fatty-roughness of confit terrine and the smooth-richness of foie gras, with the sweet crunch of pistachios livening things up. Elsewhere, a luxurious raviolo is packed with flavours – ham hough giving way to chicken, the dish bound in a truffle veloute that Michel would call ‘unctuous’. Technical ability is evident throughout. An assiette of pork gets the most from various different cuts to achieve a plate of refined meaty comfort, while seldom-served gurnard – as meaty a fish as you’ll find – is sliced, flashed and confidently set against a fennel marmalade. Big flavours, marvellously balanced. With Glaswegian eateries increasingly tending towards a less formal approach, the ‘Golden Thistle’ is now one of only a handful of restaurants in town that give the full white linen/suited waiters service that’s more easily found in places like Edinburgh and London. Dining here is a treat. And the early-evening menu makes it a pretty affordable one, too.
Classy, inventive French cooking amidst smart and cosmopolitan surroundings immediately marks out Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or as the work of a Roux protégé. Situated within the elegant confines of a Victorian townhouse, this understated Glasgow restaurant is chic yet unstuffy, equally at home with business lunches and informal dinners. An eclectic wine list, a mellow bar area and extensive private dining facilities round off a superlative dining experience.
Text supplied by third party.
- Private dining: Up to 60 covers
- Provides: Children's high chairs, Pre-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Jazz
- Live entertainment: Band at weddings and other special occasions
- Capacity: 85
- Largest group: 100
- Open since: 2001
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 15
- House wine: £21.75 per bottle
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