Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or
- Box office 0141 248 3801
- General enquiries 0141 248 3801
- Food served Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon.
- Pre-theatre times Mon–Fri 5–7pm; Sat 5–6.30pm
- Pre-theatre price £21.50
- Website www.brianmaule.com
Upmarket fine-dining restaurant with Chef Maule and his team serving classic French food in suitably formal environs.
Carrying the can for authentic French cooking, classically trained chef Brian Maule is still creating fabulous moments in a town where dwindling respect for the genre is leaving Francophiles bewildered. Le Chardon d’Or is in its 17th year at the location just off a corner on Blythswood Square, and its kitchen is still turning out inspirational, imaginative goodies. A tuna starter demonstrates the approach, being beautifully tender with a seared, peppered outer adding smoky contrast to the rich raw interior, offset by slithers of sharp pickled mooli (mild Japanese radish) and bright tomato vinaigrette. A masterclass in skill, inventiveness and harmonious flavours. Main of guinea fowl has crisp, punchy skin with rich gamey flesh, bolstered by roasted and charred cauliflower, while a perfectly seasoned sea bream is light and fluffy, augmented by slices of roasted salsify which intensifies the aromas of fresh sea air. The room is suitably opulent, overseen by a sprightly, methodical service staff who keep a careful watch on every table. Maule may soon be the last proper French chef standing in Glasgow but his reputation for creative flair and precise, flavoursome dishes is richly deserved.
Every foodie in Glasgow knows about Le Chardon D’Or. Brian Maule’s converted townhouse in the financial district still sits firmly at the top-end of places to dine in this fair city. His classical French training – a decade under Michel Roux Jr – and well-established relationships with local suppliers ensure Scotland’s natural larder is used as sensitively as anywhere else in town. Inevitably it’s pricey – but these are dishes of complexity and accomplishment (with generous portions too). Starters like a trio of duck show the thought involved: delicate strips of cured breast beside the fatty-roughness of confit terrine and the smooth-richness of foie gras, with the sweet crunch of pistachios livening things up. Elsewhere, a luxurious raviolo is packed with flavours – ham hough giving way to chicken, the dish bound in a truffle veloute that Michel would call ‘unctuous’. Technical ability is evident throughout. An assiette of pork gets the most from various different cuts to achieve a plate of refined meaty comfort, while seldom-served gurnard – as meaty a fish as you’ll find – is sliced, flashed and confidently set against a fennel marmalade. Big flavours, marvellously balanced. With Glaswegian eateries increasingly tending towards a less formal approach, the ‘Golden Thistle’ is now one of only a handful of restaurants in town that give the full white linen/suited waiters service that’s more easily found in places like Edinburgh and London. Dining here is a treat. And the early-evening menu makes it a pretty affordable one, too.
Classy, inventive French cooking amidst smart and cosmopolitan surroundings immediately marks out Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or as the work of a Roux protégé. Situated within the elegant confines of a Victorian townhouse, this understated Glasgow restaurant is chic yet unstuffy, equally at home with business lunches and informal dinners. An eclectic wine list, a mellow bar area and extensive private dining facilities round off a superlative dining experience.
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- Private dining: Up to 60 covers
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Pre-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Live entertainment: Band at weddings and other special occasions
- Capacity: 85
- Largest group: 100
- Open since: 2001
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 15
- House wine: £21.75 per bottle
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