Chez Mal Leith

Attached to the Malmaison Hotel in an enviable waterside position, this is a classic French-inspired bistro with a focus on seafood.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

A favourite with passing tourists, hotel guests and locals since the early days of Leith’s revival, Chez Mal continues to flourish. It boasts a fine location with views over the water and is a tranquil place to enjoy outdoor dining when the weather allows. If conditions are less kind, indoors is also relaxed, with exposed brick walls, colourful sea-related images and glass-fronted wine cabinets. The décor is reminiscent of a traditional bistro, and the food adds to this feeling. Alongside the eclectic à la carte offering is a good value fixed-price menu that changes seasonally. Traditional starters include eggs meurette, a delicious version of the French regional favourite, featuring two perfectly poached eggs with a rich sauce enhanced by pancetta, mushroom and onion. Among the similarly well-executed mains is a confit duck leg that falls from the bone, perfectly partnered by Toulouse sausage and tomato-infused coco beans. The tradition continues with desserts which include wine-poached pear served with a vanilla panacotta that has the perfect wobble.