- Telephone 0131 468 5000
- Opening times 9am–1am
- Bar open Mon–Sun 9am–1am
- Food served Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10.15pm; Sat/Sun 8–10.30am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10.15pm
- Pre-theatre times Daily until 7.30pm.
- Average price £19.95 (set lunch); £31 (evening meal)
- Pre-theatre price £19.95
- Website www.malmaison.com
The hotel dining room that doesn't feel like a hotel dining room – a relaxed, modern Scottish bistro.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
Twenty-two years after its opening, Malmaison’s recent £1 million renovation has freshened both rooms and public spaces. The hotel’s popular bar and brasserie, now dubbed Café Mal, are no exception – those familiar with the venue should find the exposed brick and clean modern setting an improvement. The menu has changed too: there’s a heavier emphasis on grilling, with more interesting modern Scottish choices. Crab tacos – white meat combined with red chilli, coriander, lime and mango, sitting perkily in crunchy, thin taco shells – do beg a question: why don’t we see more crab on our menus? Paper-thin slices of prime steak carpaccio, scattered with parmesan and drizzled with truffle dressing, tears tenderly under fork tines. Pan-roasted Black Angus New York strip steak is a chunky, deeply flavoured cut, rarely seen in these parts (and that’s another mystery), while West Country lamb rack, while more familiar, is no less a treat. With seared tuna mignon a bit of a standout and rich, indulgent puddings too, it’s safe to say this refresh is a definite success.
- High point: Appealing dishes from land and sea
- Low point: Hard surfaces mean it gets a bit loud
- Notable dish: Prime steak carpaccio
- Private dining: 4 rooms, capacity 8–65 people
- No. overnight rooms: 100
- Provides: Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: R&B
- Capacity: 55 (50 outdoors)
- Largest group: 60
- Open since: 1994
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 30
- House wine: £20 per bottle