Metropolitan

Upscale cocktail bar and restaurant at Merchant Square, with good food and smartly dressed clientele

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

One of several long-standing restaurants ringing the indoor courtyard of Merchant Square, Metropolitan caters to a dressy crowd looking to feel a bit flash, particularly of a weekend evening. A Mad Men-style old-fashioned Manhattan opulence prevails – you can order a whole bottle of spirits to the table (for sharing, obviously) – and there’s live piano music at weekends. The food – lots of Scottish meat and fish, prepared with European accents – presents plenty of reason alone for a visit. The Balcony Restaurant occupies the upper floor above the cocktail bar, with mezzanine tables overlooking the square representing prime perches. A starter of pan-fried scallops is attractively presented, dotted three in a row, each on a bed of celeriac and truffle purée. The pan-seared loin of venison – thin slices, nicely reddish in the middle – is served with similar precision, atop a nest of curly kale, shallots and three-way cooked chips, looking like they’re made with a set square. The desserts can leave a little to be desired, but you can skip to the cocktails, which show plenty of invention and aren't the priciest in town.

• High point: Pleasing attention to detail in food preparation and presentation
• Low point: Not enough waiting staff on to ensure timely service
• Notable dish: Pan-seared loin of venison