Franco Manca

The cult sourdough pizzeria moves North – it's cheap, cheerful and fun.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

It hasn’t been a vintage year for what’s known as the mid-market chains, so at first glance Franco Manca’s move north of the border to a St Andrews Square not overburdened by local hang-outs may seem foolhardy. But not all chains are created equal, and when they work – well, they just work. And it works here. Pizzas are thin and bubbly, on a convincing sourdough base. There’s a clear commitment to dietary requirements, with vegan and gluten-free options freely available. Pricing is democratic – and one of the few places in town where you can get a pizza and a glass of wine for around a tenner. And that chain buying power is put to good use on a tiny wine list where all options are drinkable, organic and reasonably priced. It’s not a huge space, so a buzz is quickly created, although a separate area for people picking up takeaway would make the evening feel a little less rushed. This is how a chain should be – there are precisely no surprises, but it’s good value, easy-going, fuss-free and fun.