Small plates, brunch options and cocktails bringing some Mediterranean flavours to Cowcaddens.
Just round the corner from Ardnamurchan — the Scottish restaurant opposite the Theatre Royale — the same team have opened a Greek-Italian small plates place which feels curiously off the beaten track, despite being on a main round and surrounded by offices and student accommodation. Well, spread the word, because it’s delightful. It’s EVOO (that’s Extra Virgin Olive Oil) by both name and nature, as warm bread arrives with rosemary and garlic infused varieties of the stuff. It's followed by a stream of popular Mediterranean dishes, with all sorts of oily, garlicky, tomatoey interplay and a very high standard of cooking. Baked falafel is driven by cumin, with the sweetness of beetroot hummus, and almonds and pomegranate all lending their own bit of texture and vibrancy. Pecorino and Sicillian tomato do the salty-sweet thing in a soft aubergine parmigiana, while crumbled feta enhances the lamb keftedes (meatballs) — themselves happily coarse and rugged. The ingredients list is mighty for such a wee place. Only langoustines forego olive oil, instead served halved down the middle, and outrageously finished in ’nduja butter – incredible value, and perhaps the best dish of all. It's great value at lunchtime, too. Great overall, in fact.
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: chilled-out pop
- Capacity: 43 (16 outdoors)
- Largest group: 30
- Open since: May 2019
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 10
- House wine: £18 per bottle