Nico Simeone brings his take on the pub to Kelvinbridge, celebrating produce from Scotland's western islands.
Update June 2019: Since this review was written the venue has changed name, from Public House by Nico, and focused the menu on produce from the Hebrides. Our review will be updated soon.
Let’s be clear: this public house is not a pub. There’s a bar, of course, and a scattering of seats encourage people to pop in for a beverage. But the recent Kelvinbridge opener from owner Nico Simeone (111 By Nico, Six By Nico, Supper Club By, well, you get the idea), with restaurant-style seating and a small plates sharing menu, places it firmly among the city's bistros. The ‘public house’ notion is the starting point for dishes that look to reimagine British pub and comfort food classics – and some that don’t. There’s deconstructed ‘cock a leekie’ sandwich where terrine, charred leek and crisp, buttery bread combine marvellously in the mouth, and the immense and satisfying meatiness of a lamb faggot with mint sauce. The burger soars with truffle cheese, the gnocchi is made with choux pastry (though with bacon, sprouts and sage, perhaps one flavour too many). Best of all, salt-baked celeriac achieves remarkable savouriness with browned celeriac that’s been made into a ‘jus’ bringing the umami. Some clever cooking is on show, and even if the inevitable tension between style, substance and concept pulls the occasional dish apart, the experience itself is a thoroughly enjoyable one.
- Provides: Wheelchair access, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Cool vibes
- Capacity: 44
- Open since: December 2018
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 11
- House wine: 21 per bottle