Yamato

Refined sushi and tempura from the team behind Kanpai, with Japanese wagyu beef at the heart of the menu.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Aficionados of Kanpai may experience mild déjà vu visiting its little sibling Yamato, though its similarly minimalist décor is warmer, with delicate pink lampshades and elegant wooden screens breaking the dining room into intimate nooks. The menu's instantly recognisable; however, here they’ve added bluefin tuna and the highest grade A5 waygu beef. It’s all exceptionally fresh, remarkably good and expertly handled. Each dish is a piece of art adorned with flowers, leaves, shells or bamboo ribbons. The yellowtail sashimi is as pretty as sunrise, with its crimson edge fading to ivory flesh, embellished with a drop of yuzu pepper paste complementing the natural tang of the fish. The o-toro, or tuna belly, is practically melting before it hits your mouth, the generous lines of fat adding unctuous depth and texture. While most dishes are beautifully executed classics, there are some modern takes worth exploring, such as the strangely delicious Yamato roll, filled with king prawn tempura and topped with melted emmental. Give yourself time to explore the extensive sake list too – the chilled Umenoyado Yuzu makes an excellent apéritif.