Angels with Bagpipes

Impressive modern Scottish cooking in an atmospheric restaurant that hasn’t pandered to the easy tourist custom.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Spread through a series of subtly decorated, atmospheric rooms in a 17th century building on the Royal Mile, Angels with Bagpipes is perfectly positioned to capture the year-round tourist trade and could perhaps be forgiven for taking a simplistic approach to doing so. But, thankfully, that’s not the case. Considerable effort has gone into an engaging and quality dining experience based on well-sourced ingredients and impressive modern Scottish cooking. A starter of cauliflower, spelt, walnut, blue cheese and cider is a revelation, although there are more traditional options like haggis and smoked salmon available. Mains of cod with onion velouté, purple sprouting broccoli and bacon; and chicken supreme with barley, cavolo nero and leek are simply conceived, beautifully presented and packed with flavour. Desserts of dark chocolate, hazelnut, blackcurrant and violet, and a deconstructed apple crumble with toffee, cinnamon and walnut, are lick-the-plate good. The staff are friendly and attentive and the whole experience is a reassuring reminder that Edinburgh retains some divine food and heavenly dining experiences to offer visitors and residents alike.