Locanda de Gusti
Dedication to the best ingredients and the joy of eating give this unassuming Italian restaurant a life-affirming flavour.
This friendly neighbourhood Neapolitan restaurant, from husband and wife team Rosario and Maria Sartore, bristles with confidence and an infectious sense of fun. With its lacy lampshades, linen tablecloths and old tomato tins for candles, there’s a touch of elegant, olden-days trattoria to the place, albeit with a wry wink. This mix of knowing rusticity delivered with slick professionalism can also be seen at work in the kitchen where homely, southern Italian cooking with big, bold flavours is dished up with extrovert flair. A seafood feast makes for a joyfully messy starter – mussels, clams, prawns and langoustines bathe in delicious winey broth with sweet tomatoes and garlicky toast. Silky homemade pasta also features, with guanciale, provola and potato for a satisfying, gutsy carb-fest. Secondi are unsurprisingly rich and hearty – think lamb shoulder baked long and slow on the bone, or languidly tender aubergines in bright tomato sugo with melting cheese. It’s rough around the edges, but consciously so, and underscored by good ingredients from both Scotland and Italy (such as wonderful Vesuvian tomatoes and Italian bitter greens), it’s all the better for it too.
- High point: Big, bright and bold cooking, served joyfully
- Low point: If dainty is your thing, then maybe this ain't
- Notable dish: Seafood Feast
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Free wi-fi
- Capacity: 30
- Largest group: 30
- Open since: May 2014 in current location
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 6
- House wine: £16.95 per bottle