This review is taken from the 2010 edition.
An unpretentious eating spot in the Cairngorms National Park where the food is hearty but crafted and the atmosphere is relaxed, informal and family-friendly.
From its small and fairly unassuming frontage, this popular restaurant opens out into a spacious, modern and comfortable neighbourhood bistro serving imaginative dishes mixing the wealth of local produce with regional and global flavours. The eponymous owners Steve and Claire have encouraged a relaxed, informal and inclusive atmosphere that belies the top-quality, attractively presented plates coming from the busy kitchen hatch. The changing local ingredients and culinary ideas appear to come at such a rate that the kitchen's main offerings change not just seasonally but also daily, whether one of the several ‘Today’s’ specials – including pie, catch, burger, gnocchi – or something from the handful of tempting dishes on the seasonal menu. Split into air, land, sea and earth, its offerings range from the likes of barbecue ribs with Cajun-spiced wedges and guinea fowl stuffed with haggis to an enjoyable pan-fried salmon enlivened by a tangy dill and salmon sauce. Much is done in house, from smoking the haggis to churning the variety of delicious ice-cream flavours – the rum and raisin is beautifully done, enhanced as part of an indulgent 'afagato' trio with espresso and liqueur. Staff are friendly and casual but, like much of the food, wouldn't be amiss in much finer and more expensive establishments.
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs