The Den at Dining In with Mother India

Intimate restaurant-deli delivering the traditional, home-style cooking of the Mother India group in a simpler, imaginative version.

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It’s a more private counterpart of the neighbouring Mother India’s Café with a name that is evocative of a smaller-sized, intimate eatery. The Den at Dining In is a restaurant and occasional deli that stays true to the famed group’s core principle of traditional home-style cooking while offering a unique menu. Building on the notion of a pantry, the Den is characterised by a relaxed setting and an imaginative offering. There are chicken, lamb and vegetarian dishes, including the noteworthy sweet lamb with turnip and green peas. But the chefs makes particularly good use of seafood, offering hake, haddock, monkfish, scallops and prawn with four carefully devised curries to suit. While the old tune about quality ingredients is often cited by restaurateurs, it rings particularly accurate in the case of the Den. And for a diner who may not find anything satisfying on the menu, the staff will generally be happy to prepare a made-to-order meal. With a steep curry competition in town, superlatives are to be cautiously used, but the Den undoubtedly merits the title of one of the best in Glasgow.

• High point: Simple but imaginative dishes
• Low point: Slightly confusing menu
• Notable dish: Monk fish with crushed cauliflower and diced potatoes

Listed in the Glasgow Larder – order a print copy (free + p&p).