Among Glasgow’s most attentive dining experiences, where seasonality, exceptional sourcing and attention to detail create a winning formula.
At Cail Bruich, great attention is paid to little details – the poise of the staff, the refinement of the décor, or the elegance of the introductory snacks. Those might include treats like Crowdie and salmon, encased in toasty buckwheat, or a preposterously full-on beef fat doughnut with cabbage and tongue. The smoked butter that accompanies the bread is legendary. Ingredients are foraged, others grown in their garden. In the kitchen there’s a swagger to proceedings, and an embrace of seasonality and big flavours: fattiness of partridge offset against pear, foie gras adding richness and balance. It’s good. But better is Goosnargh duck – robust breast, and leg meat that’s slow-cooked, juicy, pulled off the bone then artfully shaped into a terrine. Cubes of rhubarb jelly bring wintry sweetness and truly elevate things. Elsewhere, plates of mackerel, stone bass and skate wing show a more delicate side. On to some suitably luxurious desserts: chocolate torte is bitter, blunt and thoroughly grown-up, while a soufflé will rise, magnificently, then ooze with Yorkshire rhubarb, and proceedings close with the same assuredness with which they began.
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Halal options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: tasteful alternative pop/rock, not too loud
- Capacity: 42
- Largest group: 46
- Open since: 2008
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 28
- House wine: £22 per bottle
- BYOB: no charge corkage (Mon/Tue)
Reviews & features
Cail Bruich West4 Sep 2008
No one quite expected the Gaelic renaissance to include food. Fiona Anderson took along her phrasebook for a meal in Glasgow's West End.