Gandolfi Fish

Upmarket yet welcoming Merchant City seafood spot from long-established Gandolfi team, serving high-quality seafood dishes and fabulous wine.

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Despite the sleekly minimal lines of its sophisticated interior, this upmarket fish restaurant has a very Glaswegian warmth to it. That comes, perhaps, from it being part of the Gandolfi stable whose tables have entertained diners in the city for nearly 40 years. Here the emphasis is firmly on beautifully presented seafood, much of it landed off Scotland’s West Coast. Chunky, buttery halibut goes surprisingly well with a Pinot Noir from the finely constructed wine list, while the squid in Vietnamese sauce showcases what is a global menu. On the same theme, soft peat-smoked haddock makes a great partner for a bed of soft potatoes infused with Indian spices. More traditionally, the hay-smoked trout with beetroot is a delicate way to begin and elsewhere on the menu there are Scottish classics like Cullen skink or a superior fish and chips. Staff are keen and knowledgeable but never stuffy, and amid the upmarket, stylishly designed dining space the shiny fine dining retains a discernible Scottish heart and soul.

• High point: Expertly cooked Scottish fish
• Low point: Dodgy artwork lets the side down
• Notable dish: Hay-smoked trout with beetroot

Listed in the Glasgow Larder – order a print copy (free + p&p).