The Grill Room at the Square
- Telephone 0141 225 5615
- Opening times Mon–Sat noon–3am; Sun 12.30pm–3am
- Bar open Mon–Sat noon–3am; Sun 12.30pm–3am
- Food served Mon–Fri 8am–10.30pm; Sat/Sun 10am–10.30pm
- Pre-theatre times Sun–Sat noon–6.15pm
- Average price £16.50 (set lunch); £35 (evening meal)
- Pre-theatre price £16.50
- Website www.grillroomglasgow.com
A steakhouse for the upwardly mobile with swanky surroundings and a great view of Royal Exchange Square propping up an accessible menu.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
Steakhouses are allowed to have a touch of swankiness about them, which the Grill Room at the Square embraces with neon gusto. It’s the in-house restaurant of the private members-only venue 29, but this is no old boys’ club. Wooden and leather furniture compete with glitzy details that remind you that, in fact, the One Up nightclub is only next door. An accessible menu (including modern pub favourites such as lamb hotpot and chicken teriyaki) makes sure to show diners that steak has decent credentials if it wants to be a member here: there’s a USDA grain-fed sirloin, all the standard British cuts (28-day-aged Scotch Beef Club standard), and a very ‘on-trend’ bone-in ribeye with lovely depth and texture. A wagyu steak at under £30 is another competitive touch, with the requisite delicate, marbled ‘give’ to the meat in full presence. Smaller plates such as smoked chicken caesar or beef rillettes are similarly tasty and refined, without ever being risky. This place knows what it is, and plays its upwardly mobile hand pretty well.
- High point: Wagyu beef for under £30
- Low point: A venue too big and brash for some tastes
- Notable dish: Bone-in ribeye
- Private dining: 16, 22 & 40 (marquee on roof terrace)
- Provides: Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Live entertainment: Live jazz every Sunday afternoon. Pianist Fri/Sat 6pm–10pm
- Capacity: 120
- Largest group: 120
- Open since: 2005
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 9
- House wine: £18.95 per bottle