Neighbourhood bistro focused on seasonal fish and meat in a cosy and relaxed setting.
In Finnieston, not much apart from the crane itself has displayed the longevity of Fanny Trollope’s. It opened in 2004, when Glasgow’s bistro scene was far more a collection of neighbourhood joints and market menus compared to the Class of 2019 and its upward mobility. This place exists nicely between such worlds, with a steadfast following – especially on occasions such as Mothers’ Day or Christmas Day. The trusted formula is substantial Scottish food, with delicate nods and culinary touches from around the globe. They’re pretty solid on big flavours, like pigeon in a salty jus with bacon and mushrooms, or just-pink-enough venison fillet with red cabbage giving an aromatic sweetness. The little spring roll of braised leg is the sort of canny touch that adds additional depth and enjoyment. Lighter plates are perhaps better still – the sweetness of charred pumpkin, saltiness of feta, and hit of mint balanced in a vibrant salad. Then there are comfort dishes like plum rice pudding, with an unapologetic crust of brown sugar. A vague notion of Art Deco traces the interior, but Fanny Trollope’s is really less about décor, and more about staff who know their customers and their jobs inside out.
While new openings are celebrated every other weekend in fashionable Finneston, Fanny Trollope’s has been part of the local area before the local area became the place to be seen. Its ethos of cooking with quality locally sourced produce hasn’t changed over the last 14 years, though a change in policy away from BYOB at the turn of the year may test the resolve of some regulars. The interior is small and it can be a popular and busy place. The kitchen does a top job of turning out a menu with its own personality, such as sweet and sharp crab and chilli mash, which is served alongside a crispy sea bass fillet. Pigeon breast is peppery and rich, with a blend of mushroom and cabbage that only add to the earthy flavours of the dish. The vegetable accompaniments can be on the light side, however, so the optional sides are worth considering. Desserts are light enough that you won’t feel stuffed afterwards – particularly if you opt for the pineapple carpaccio, served with coconut ice cream. In an area awash with eateries, this old favourite still excels.
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Pre-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: 70s/80s/90s pop/rock, and they always put on an artist if they're playing the Hydro that night
- Capacity: 42
- Largest group: 8
- Open since: 2004
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 7
- House wine: £20 per bottle