Neighbourhood bistro focused on seasonal fish and meat in a cosy and relaxed setting.
An article in the Times newspaper last year rated Finnieston ‘the hippest place in the UK’, and while that might be pushing it, the explosion of fashionable eating places up and down Argyle Street in the last few years has been quite remarkable. Fanny Trollope’s was among the pioneers, opening in 2004 when there wasn’t much more than a curry house and a chippy in the whole street. A stylish art deco-style facade leads to a snug, narrow room with just 42 covers, distributed across booths and closely spaced wooden tables and making for an intimate, communal atmosphere. Food is Scots-European, with risotto, polenta and puy lentils partnering local venison, West Coast fish and the odd slice of Stornoway black pudding. A more exotic influence shows here and there – there's a slow-braised duck leg curry, for example, and a Middle Eastern-inspired lamb flatbread with preserved lemon. Somewhat limited opening means lunch is only available on Friday and over the weekend, but Fanny Trollope’s is open for dinner six nights a week.
While new openings are celebrated every other weekend in fashionable Finneston, Fanny Trollope’s has been part of the local area before the local area became the place to be seen. Its ethos of cooking with quality locally sourced produce hasn’t changed over the last 14 years, though a change in policy away from BYOB at the turn of the year may test the resolve of some regulars. The interior is small and it can be a popular and busy place. The kitchen does a top job of turning out a menu with its own personality, such as sweet and sharp crab and chilli mash, which is served alongside a crispy sea bass fillet. Pigeon breast is peppery and rich, with a blend of mushroom and cabbage that only add to the earthy flavours of the dish. The vegetable accompaniments can be on the light side, however, so the optional sides are worth considering. Desserts are light enough that you won’t feel stuffed afterwards – particularly if you opt for the pineapple carpaccio, served with coconut ice cream. In an area awash with eateries, this old favourite still excels.
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Capacity: 42
- Largest group: 42
- Open since: 2004
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 11
- House wine: £19 per bottle