Cosy neighbourhood Chinese with some interesting options on an otherwise familiar menu.
Other than the giant photograph of Chairman Mao looming over you from the staircase wall, there’s very little to identify Kwok Brasserie as a Chinese restaurant. It’s an attractive room – the high corniced ceiling, mood lighting and dark ruby-red walls all suggest that you’re in, well, a brasserie. Cutlery, not chopsticks. Salt & pepper alongside the soy. It’s all a trifle disorientating. Once you’re handed the menu, however, you know where you stand. Aside from a handful of specials, such as beef belly hotpot and steamed garlic langoustines, Kwok’s focus is on rustling up those old Chinese standards. Shredded chilli beef is honey-sweet if a touch soggy, while the house noodles ‘Canton style’ are piled high with assorted goodies such as char siu, prawns and crunchy vegetables. Salt and chilli squid is well-seasoned and nicely cooked, although beware the occasional overdone starter. Kwok may not justify a trek across town, but, after all, it prides itself on being a popular neighbourhood restaurant, as the endless stream of local punters eager for takeaway will attest.
- High point: Comforting Chinese classics in mellow surroundings
- Low point: Overdone starters disappoint
- Notable dish: Salt and chilli squid
- Delivery: £1.30 for orders below £18
- Provides: Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access
- Music on stereo: Easy listening
- Capacity: 40
- Largest group: 40
- Open since: 2001
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 1
- House wine: £11.50 per bottle
- BYOB: £3 corkage