A classic Chinese dining experience in the heart of the city – no fusion, no fuss, no frills, just great Asian food.
This review is taken from the current (2016) edition.
A pair of miniature golden dragons unobtrusively guard the dining area here, as if watching for any break in tradition. Glorious aromas fill the room under soft-glowing lanterns while auspiciously coloured red linen is draped around here and there under a Chinese patterned mosaic. Tradition, continuity and balance. And why not? Exquisitely steamed sea bream hold its shape perfectly while supporting ginger and soy dressing and the crab rolls taste as if they just scuttled from the beach and into your bowl. There’s a whole farmyard of ways to enjoy some duck, with the chilli and garlic version a particular delight. Whole chillis stuffed with smashed prawns are skilfully seasoned and burst with harmonious heat and sweetness. Add some steamed greens or salt and pepper tofu and it’s hard to imagine a fresher more authentic experience. Those dragons might as well relax and tuck into some dim sum – it doesn’t need a fortune cookie to suggest that the Loon Fung won’t be changing anytime soon. Thank goodness for that.
- High point: Excellent balance of flavours
- Low point: Big screen TVs
- Notable dish: Steamed sea bream with ginger
- Private dining: Up to 40 covers
- Provides: Halal options, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Live music, Free wi-fi
- Capacity: 100
- Largest group: 40
- Open since: 1971 (reopened January 2013 after two years closed)
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 4
- House wine: £14 per bottle