This review is taken from the 2013 edition.
Care, creativity and gratification are words that come quickly to mind when anticipating a meal at Ostlers Close. For more than 30 years, Jimmy and Amanda Graham have dedicated themselves to creating exuberant menus from whatever is local and best. When that demands raiding the family garden, their restaurant gets first dibs. The intimate venue feels more caring than crowded, the enjoyment evident among fellow diners establishing an immediate sense of ease. To start, slow-cooked caramelised pork cheek, encircled by tender beetroot and finely chopped kale, is earthy sweet. Fillets of local seafish bathe in golden Catalan Sugret sauce, ground almonds providing richness without the heaviness of cream. Later, roe venison, roasted to a jewel-like ruby pink, counters a deep, dark juniper game sauce with the sparkle of amber quince jelly. Vegetarians and those with dietary restrictions will benefit from letting Amanda know in advance. Puddings tempt – the trio of chocolate puddings test the calorie-counting conscience of a saint, enabling pannacotta, juxtaposed with passion fruit sauce and mango sorbet, to appear a relatively virtuous alternative.
- High point: Luscious Scottish produce made glorious
- Low point: Not open for weekday lunch
Celebrating 35 years at the upper echelons of the Scottish restaurant scene in 2016, owners Amanda and Jimmy Graham have dedicated themselves to creating exuberant menus from whatever is local and in season. The small, intimate experience starts in the wee lane off Cupar’s Bonnygate, continuing into the cosy dining space with seating for just over two dozen people. Expect dishes celebrating the best of Scottish produce, from hand-dived scallops from Mull, local langoustines and Scottish halibut to slow-cooked shoulder of Balhelvie lamb, Puddledub pork or desserts featuring soft fruit from Fife. The successful blend of quality Scottish cuisine and compact surrounds means booking is advised.
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs
- Capacity: 26
- Largest group: 28
- Open since: 1981
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 12
- House wine: £18 per bottle