Nestling underneath a railway bridge on the ‘wrong’ side of the river might well work against Spice Garden, as perhaps the white interior and garden(ish) décor would, in the eyes of some. More fool them, because a couple of minutes walk from the City Centre and you’re at an accomplished restaurant serving bold flavours until the remarkable time of 4am every day. The marinade on tandoori king prawns, like everything else from the clay oven, is far fierier than most places in town. Seasonings are tempered – cooked on their own first to bring out the flavours – but never temperate, as in the garam masala which is thick, and sweet, with hints of the seeds of mustard and onion, and all-in it is a broad platform from which the palate then ignites. Even the simple curry base accompanying a biryani is unashamedly ‘medium-hot’ compared to its peers elsewhere. Those who like to eat spicy, or indeed late, should head to the river for a dependably fiery fix.
- High point: Late opening time
- Low point: Trains passing overhead
- Delivery: £1.45–£2.50 / Delivery until 3am
- Provides: Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Modern Indian pop
- Capacity: 78
- Open since: 1999