- Telephone 0131 337 6169
- Opening times Mon–Sun 11am–11pm
- Bar open Mon–Sun 11am–11pm.
- Food served Mon–Sun 5.30–9.30pm.
- Average price £21 (lunch); £21 (evening meal)
- Website www.dunstanehotels.co.uk
This review is taken from the 2015 edition.
The grand Victorian façade of the Dunstane masks a contemporary, plush, boutique hotel, with The Skerries as its house restaurant. The menu is actually a little less Orcadian than the name suggests, although Orkney’s own Grimbister cheese fritters appear as a starter. These ping-pong ball sized affairs are a little doughy, and the delicate cheese is rather lost, but the haggis bon bons are much more successful, light and crispy with a rich peppery filling. Of the mains the sea bass is a delight, rich and salty and accompanied by full flavoured and herby cherry tomatoes. A fillet of salmon is perfectly judged and served on top of a surprisingly hearty pea and mint risotto and a lime crust, giving it a delicately citrus air. Grimbister appears again in the cheese selection, accompanied by rich and sticky goat’s cheese and a punchy blue. A sweeter option is available in the form of port-poached pear, a big festive burst of flavour that stands on its own but is served with a curiously delicious parfait with a popcorn crust.
- High point: Innovative and original cooking makes this much more than just a hotel restaurant
- Low point: A little far out of town unless you’re staying nearby or upstairs
- Notable dish: Grimbister Fritters
- No. overnight rooms: 20
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Outdoor tables, Free wi-fi
- Capacity: 32
- Largest group: 40
- Open since: 2001
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 8
- House wine: £17.95 per bottle