The Skerries

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The grand Victorian façade of the Dunstane masks a contemporary, plush, boutique hotel, with The Skerries as its house restaurant. The menu is actually a little less Orcadian than the name suggests, although Orkney’s own Grimbister cheese fritters appear as a starter. These ping-pong ball sized affairs are a little doughy, and the delicate cheese is rather lost, but the haggis bon bons are much more successful, light and crispy with a rich peppery filling. Of the mains the sea bass is a delight, rich and salty and accompanied by full flavoured and herby cherry tomatoes. A fillet of salmon is perfectly judged and served on top of a surprisingly hearty pea and mint risotto and a lime crust, giving it a delicately citrus air. Grimbister appears again in the cheese selection, accompanied by rich and sticky goat’s cheese and a punchy blue. A sweeter option is available in the form of port-poached pear, a big festive burst of flavour that stands on its own but is served with a curiously delicious parfait with a popcorn crust.

• High point: Innovative and original cooking makes this much more than just a hotel restaurant
• Low point: A little far out of town unless you’re staying nearby or upstairs
• Notable dish: Grimbister Fritters