Chow

Offering a mix of traditional and Westernised Chinese cuisine this small, simple and unassuming venue has a notable history behind it.

Takeaway review
Classic dishes with contemporary flourishes and aromatic flavours are the hallmarks of this busy restaurant and delivery outfit on Byres Road. Salt and pepper ribs are finger-licking sticky in a bright honey and teriyaki sauce while yuk sung offers chilli-flavoured minced chicken which creates a perfect contrast when spooned into crisp, cool lettuce parcels. Char siu pork noodles are filling and succulent served with a scatter of tender vegetables and sliced roast pork infused with yellow-bean sauce. Allow twenty minutes for the freshly prepared steamed dim sum which is light, juicy and worth the wait. Chow also does a good value ‘half and half’ takeaway lunch special – two half portions in one container.

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With something akin to a humble bow, Chow quietly takes its place amid the hubbub of Byres Roadd, like a lovingly worn family ornament. It has been a family affair since opening but after 15 years under the stewardship of the Chows it came under new management in October 2015. The regular menu offers a mix of classics and old favourites – spring rolls, prawn balls and pork aplenty in a variety of guises. The Szechuan duck is intense but the peppers linger just enough to make the next bite enticing. For those seeking a more authentic experience, the traditional Chinese menu will undoubtedly catch the eye – from intestines to beef flank and fried whole fish in chillis there’s no shortage of tempting dishes. From the small but never cramped dining area to the neat mezzanine that makes the best use possible of the compact space, you’ll find a reliable option with little fuss. Yet while the proud history showcases an admirable staying power, there’s a sense it’s living a little on past glories.

• High point: The traditional menu
• Low point: Toilets need some TLC
• Notable dish: beef flank