Baby Grand

Long-established bistro bringing a touch of elegance to Charing Cross, with low lighting and an impressive menu.

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In an odd little pedestrian square hemmed in by office blocks and a Premier Inn sits Baby Grand, that’s proved itself something of a minor Charing Cross institution. In business here since 1984, this bar-and-grill-style establishment harks back earlier still for style cues, going for a Glaswegian take on Madmen-era New York. Tall stools facing a long, marble-topped bar encourage a cocktail or two, and, as the name suggests, there’s live, low-key piano music to go with them (evenings from Wednesday to Sunday). The bar extends into a tiny open kitchen preparing a simple, confident menu – steaks and sandwiches for the most part, plus a few more involved dishes such as jerk chicken or roast venison, and finishing with pleasant homemade puddings. A market menu is good value and includes a juicy bavette steak cooked rare, sliced into long strips and served with a mound of skinny chips and salad. Generous breakfasts from 7.30am (9am weekends) draw commuters as well as guests from the nearby hotel.

• High point: Relaxed atmosphere
• Low point: Not the most enticing location
• Notable dish: Pan roasted haunch of venison, pickled red cabbage, parsnip, red wine sauce